Mojave Road

Road Trip! Having moved from San Diego to Scottsdale in the summer of '99, it proved to be difficult to find time in everybody's schedule for a trip on Mojave Road that we had in mind for quite a while. Finally, a time slot materialized in the fall, and Claudia and myself met up in Barstow with Kevin, Carla, and Grace from San Diego. We've enjoyed each other's company through five years of working together in San Diego, and also from a trip up to Cerro Gordo and through Saline Valley (check back soon for a report on this trip). Kevin had been reading the Guide to Mojave Road and said we definitively needed to go. It took us six hours from Phoenix to Barstow. Ever since I had a new radiator clutch installed, gas mileage on the Jimmy had become a nuisance, that's why you'll see all the gas cans on the roof rack (this is getting too dangerous, and will be subject to change soon). Transmission rebuild with a new cooler was perfect for this trip. Six highway hours at about 3000 rpm (due to the 4.10 gears) lead to an exhaust gasket (or so?) rearranging itself on the right side. Funny noise, made me nervous, but went away when the engine warmed up. Claudia, fearing (knowing!?) that I would fret over possible breakdowns all this time, insisted that I either not listen, but at least that I not talk about it in order for her to be able to enjoy this trip. Ensuing doom, either at the hands of my loved one or by my truck ... what's a guy to do? Needless to say, Claudia was right again, nothing worth fretting about. Worrying about what might go wrong with the truck actually helps me relax and not think about work for a change, though....
Calico Early Man Site On the way from Barstow to the beginning of our Mojave Road adventure, we took a little detour to visit the Calico Early Man Site, just a little north of I-15 in the foothills of the Calico Mountains overlooking the Mojave River Valley. We walked around the archaeological dig site, and after donning helmets, we had a chance to check out one of the digs. Here on the left you can see Carla and Claudia while we're getting a fascinating account about archeology, history, and the painstaking activities needed to un(g)ravel the mysteries of Early Man. We are about 25 feet below the desert surface in this dig. The wall of dirt, rocks, and gravel in the background represents an account of geological history. The amount of manual labor in such an endeavour, inch by inch, documenting everything, any potential artifact....amazing. Of course, no A/C in the dig itself, only a bit shade...
Staging Area We had decided to drive Mojave Road from West to East, opposite the direction that is usually taken and that is described in Denis Casebier's book - a must-have travel companion for this trip! In my experience, West to East has definite advantages for the driver, since one has to face the sun only for a very short time in the morning before it is too high, and the passenger's arm and cheek get roasted for a change... After riding a wide, curving and sandy Manix Wash, we are now in the bed of the Mojave River, looking east towards the Cady Mountains. Again, one of my favorite color combinations - a dark blue sky, bright sand, green and yellow brush, purple mountains, my truck packed up and in good shape, plenty of film, what could be better! Actually, on this trip, there's one more thing: good company. This party was made up by Carla and Kevin Long, Grace Kennedy, all in their XJ's, as well as Claudia and myself in the K5. Protection for the Jeeps, I suppose, see, one is hiding ... not really, both XJ's proved their mettle, which is nothing new to all you Jeepers out there. We just like all the extra space of the fullsize. Anyway, I aired the Jimmy down to about 25psi, running on worn 32x11.5's at the time. Proved to be just right for all the sand ahead.
Afton Canyon A river runs through it... NOT!!! Most if not all of the water is actually underground. We were there in the fall after a rather dry summer, and the little trickle that you see here was all we could see of the Mojave River. Eroded mountain cliffs in brown, red and bright grey, tamarisk bushes in green and yellow lining the riverbed, and an seemingly endless blue sky contrast starkly with the bright sand and an occasional salt crust. First impression can be deceiving - despite all the scenic beauty, this is definitively not the place to be on the few days when it does rain! Of course, this is true for any wash or canyon in the Southwest!
The Mojave River Delta River deltas are usually lush with vegetation once a river spreads out and generates wetlands. Well, not necessarily here, with most of the water under ground, and with sand, gravel, rocks, more sand... The branches of an almost dead mesquite tree, sandblasted by the wind and bleached nearly white by the unrelenting desert sun, reach accusingly towards the sky. In time, it will be the birth place for a new sand dune.
Standing Tall at the Soda Lake Having left the sands of the Mojave River behind, we stand at the eastern shore of the Soda Lake with the late afternoon sun in our backs. We were lucky - the Soda Lake was dry, with a baby-bottom smooth surface having a magical effect of the right foot! It's like the contrail of an airplane behind each vehicle, only it's dust and salt! Brought a rock to leave at the monument in the center of the lake for luck, and had a good chuckle at the inscription of the brass plate at the monument ...by custom, I can't tell you what it says. Have to go there yourself...
Towards Marl Springs Day two - a rather smooth and even trail surface, with rock cairns as markers along the way, set the scene as we gain elevation and slowly work our way past volcanic cinder cones and black lava beds towards Marl Springs. Towering Joshua trees, sharply pointed Agave, low brittlebush and everpresent creosote present a frame for the historic trail in this region.
Early morning in the high desert One of those "What are you doing up so early, let me sleep, it's still dark, it'll never work"-pictures. We spent the night in the company of wild burros surrounding but not coming into our campsite - these creatures are noisy (and, they also commit a certain degree of air pollution)! Since BLM is removing the burros from the Mojave National Preserve, this may have been the last time I've seen wild burros. The early morning light in the Mojave is priceless, just barely illuminating a Joshua tree in the foreground while bathing the sky in lavender and pink, and the New York mountains purple in the background - precious moments to me! Again, due to time constraints we had to cut it short after two thirds of the way and headed south through Lanfair Valley to Goffs. We visited the historic Schoolhouse, and met with Dennis Casebier who gave us a tour of the grounds. Then, it was time to hit the highway - we'll be back!